George Percival Scriven:
An American in Bohol, The Philippines, 1899-1901

An On-line Archival Collection
Special Collections Library, Duke University


Section Three



{21}
I have seen no <few> Spaniards on this island. Evidently all went with the soldiers. The progress these simple people have made in conducting their own affairs since left to themselves is wonderful. Their schools and posts are excellent; their police good, and everywhere are seen [sic] the evidence of comfort, happiness and peace. What more can we give them. Well returning towards Baclayon we passed the country going to market, some on foot others on horse, the women riding a queer kind of side saddle made like a cane chair. On foot nearly every woman carries an umbrella. Market was late, however, and it was nearly eleven o'clock before the shad[y] space under the high porch of the market place, where the sea breeze swept through, was filled. Here were offered fabrics made from island hemp or piña, cotton stuffs and trinkets from Hong Kong, wooden combs, cheap native jewelry, and nearby tobacco, then perhaps cocoa nuts, native coffee; then in another group vegetables onions, egg plant, then rice, native corn, fish, eggs, and so for edibles. Beyond the buildings hats and baskets were sold, but every where the crowd was quiet and orderly but very curious about the strangers. They were a pleasant faced lot polite and clean, not ill smelling like crowds of that nature on Panay and the food offered seemed clean and good. Indeed the Boholanos are an admirable people.
An inspection of the barracks of the civil guard

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{23}
showed the same collection of old spears and bolos as before with the addition of two quaint old pictures on religious subjects doubtless of Spanish execution which the Dr. and I made a feeble attempt to buy but did not. Then a good lunch and quiet smoke looking out over the merrily dancing sea, and the fishing birds inshore, then by a road through the woods home. On this drive I saw my first tree top house, a little bamboo hut like a doll's house in a low tree (dul-dul or cotton wood.) Now it grows dusk for dinner with the mess the first time since landing a week ago. Hope I may keep free from fever now.

{24}
Information concidered [sic] fairly trustworthy <had been received which> indicated that a landing had could best be made at the southern end of the island near the capital: and that no opposition would be met <made>. So in spite of the <obvious> fact that we should thus <the force would> land when it was expected and where the inhabitants if hostile would be prepared to meet it other conciderations determined Major Hale to accept this risk and land on the coast near the capital. At Cebu, therefore, [illegible] interpreter was obtained

{25} [continued from p. 11 ]
15
the expedition sailed <from Iloilo> on board the transport Elcano first for Cebu where an armed ship was to be fished up added, and thence to some port of Bohol. I had the privilege of accompanying this expedition in connection with certain work of my own corps. (Insert 2). As a consequence <of the uncertain conditions and of its isolation when the island should be have been taken> the expedition was equipped with all completeness of equipment necessary <for peace or for war, and contained all essential [illegible]> to occupy and hold a hostile island for many weeks. It consisted of two hundred men and 9 officers, was provisioned for two months, carried an excellent hospital outfit under the charge of a skilful physician who had proved his value as a sanitary expert in the hospitals of Havana the year previous; and was in fact ready to establish itself on any spot of the habitable globe and hold its own against all comers. And thus equipped <the expedition> sailed about sunset on March 14 for Cebu.
The men of the little command had just returned from an expedition against the mountain town of ---- in Antique <in western Panay and were hard as nails in excellent condition for the work ahead of it later confinement for several days on the dirty decks of the hired transport had undone some of the good still a finer body of troops are rarely seen. Final dispositions made, plans arranged with the senior naval officer of the station, it was decided to attempt a landing on the coast near

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{27}
the capital Tagbilaran and <island of Panglao whence a good road was known to extend to the capital>. The gunboat Panay was sent out some hours before the Elcano sailed to await the arrival <of the latter> off the coast of Bohol.
It was about twelve o'clock of a beautiful night, with a full moon shining over forest and harbor, lightening up the salients of the grey old fort and touching with silver the white walls of church and convent when the Elcano started on her voyage. The distance was short and long before the bugles sang reveille across the quiet of the slumbering sea <in the> silver grey of the following morning, the men were active and preparing to land on the unknown island. Presently as the sun rose we ran in towards the line of a green well wooded coast and following it eastward approached a shallow bay evidently our landing place <for far inland we could see the masts of the gunboat at anchor>. A few canoes were patrolling <here & there> across the [illegible] sea, and a larger craft <sometimes [appeared?] under the [illegible], but everything was as peaceful as a summer's morning <should be.> Presently we saw the signal flag of the Panay telling us the depth of water, [which?] her boat sounded here and there in search of a channel. But no one appeared to notice our approach and the fishing canoes at sea, and natives along the shore continued their occupations as if it were nothing



{28}

This afterwards or not at all. [This editorial reminder refers to the passage, beginning "three dignitaries <intelligent looking people..." near the bottom of p. 29.]

{29}
unusual <for them> to see of a morning two steamers off their coast <bringing> soldiers from the other side of the world to take possession of this country. Appearances, however, may not be accepted in the Philippines, and as the ship stole quietly into her anchorage about a mile from shore four boats were called away, manned with native rowers and carrying <an officer and> eighteen or nineteen men each were drawn up in line in advance of the ship and preceded by a boat from the Panay in which were Major Hale <commanding>, Lt. [Lubey?] of the navy, Asst. Surgeon Furbush and the writer, proceeded with an interval of some twenty yards [i.e between boats] towards the shore. But nothing occurred to mar the quiet of the scene, the water broke gently over brilliant sands and corals below, the fishermen continued to fish <their occupation>, the canoes rocked gently on the waves, while on shore all was quiet <as the desert> until. As the water shoaled men and officers leaped overboard and presently a long <skirmish> line of blue <shirted soldiers> was advancing, <muzzles of their guns in the air>, through the shallow waters to the shore. Presently as we approached <nearer> a carriage appeared driving along the beach evidently the Government come to receive us; and as the commanding officer accompanied by the others of his boat stepped dripping upon the sands the <representatives> of Bohol advanced to meet him, three dignitaries, <intelligent looking people, evidently dressed in their Sunday clothes> and a priest; but the President of the Republic was not there. We learned then that word had been sent of our coming the day before; but time and tide had prevented the representatives of the people from going on board the transport. It appeared that the President would receive Major Hale at the Capital, and would there surrender his charge but under protest and because he had no means of

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